Dawn. As the budding sun pulls itself over the horizon, shedding light upon the coming morning, Dave Caldiero, chef at Town Restaurant in Kaimuki, has his eyes keenly trained to the local produce just unloaded at the Diamond Head Farmers' Market. He's looking for only the freshest of greens and the juiciest of fruits, because that's all that makes it into his kitchen at Town.
Situated in the beating heart of Kaimuki along Waialae Avenue, Town has become a staple eatery among those in the know. Since opening their doors to a loud cry of approval from the local foodies and run-of-the-mill diners alike in 2005, Town has forged itself into one of the most revered and environmentally respected restaurants in the Honolulu dining scene. Walking past the herb garden that skirts the sidewalk near the faŽade of the restaurant, the gastronomical experience of eating at Town literally begins before you walk in the door. The unmistakable bite of rosemary lingers in the air, prepping your palette for what's to come. Basil, as verdant a shade of green as anything you'll find along the Pali, stands at attention, ready to be picked and placed in one of the restaurant's signature homemade, hand-cut pasta bowls.
Inside the building, the light base of lounge music glides through the air, giving the eatery a livelihood that feels as comfortable as any of your favorite neighborhood digs. Once seated, you won't find a haughty wait staff or stiff-lipped maitre d' standing vigil, but you will be presented with down-home flavors and a T-shirt-wearing staff that represent the bounty of local produce, fish and game prepared with a wealth of culinary knowledge and a flare for the fantastic.
Tucked away in the back corner and seated at one of the few empty tables during the lunch rush, Chef de Cuisine Caldiero takes an hour off from working the line for our interview. He's not wearing the traditional white chef's coat emblazoned with his name and culinary title. No, he's adorned like your average 30-something island hipster, trimmed in jeans and a faded T-shirt. He nurses a warm cup of black Italian coffee sans sugar and, despite being a man that has been on his feet cutting, chopping, sautèing and roasting for the past five hours, he remains remarkably alert and well spoken.
"I've never really been into wearing a chef's coat or anything like that," he says with a wry grin as he takes another sip of his mid-afternoon mud. "Everyone in the kitchen knows who I am already... so what's the point?"
Caldiero's cool-as-cucumbers demeanor and unpretentious attitude serve as a gateway into the soul of the restaurant. Although the dècor is not overstated and stiff, it drips a sense of modernity and chicness that isn't always present in the Honolulu restaurant scene. The tables at Town are not draped with overly-starched linens, but are instead constructed of brushed stainless steel. The menus, written and updated daily according to what's fresh and seasonal, are typed in an old newsprint font and are bound to a sheet of thick cardboard by a nifty metal clip. The food is a contemporary take on traditional heart-warming Italian joined by a modern American flair and has kept diners singing to the tune of mouth-watering praise.
Perhaps the most remarkable of all elements that have forged Town's success may not lie directly in the kitchen, but with the local farmers and producers they have worked so closely with since opening their doors over four years ago. More than just choosing to support local vendors, the crew at Town are committed to keeping their environmental impact as minimal as possible. From the fry grease that becomes biodiesel to the worm bin in the back of the restaurant to the biodegradable take-out containers, it's clear as crystal that Town is damn serious about sustainability.
"We take a lot of pride in always trying to work with the local farmers and to support what they do. We don't want a tomato that was ripened in the back of a truck or anything. I'm of the mindset that food doesn't always need to be complicated. To me, a tomato for instance, tastes the best when it's picked fresh with just a little bit of salt, pepper and olive oil. Our motto here is 'local first, organic when possible, and aloha always' and we really stick to that principle."
Originally hailing from New York City, Caldiero came to the islands after attending culinary school back east. Upon graduating, he worked a brief-but-enlightening stint in a small French restaurant.
"Culinary school's great, but it can only teach you so much. When you graduate, you know the basics and how to hold a knife, but you've got to get into the kitchen before you can really understand what it's all about," he says.
Upon returning from Europe, Caldiero made his way to Hawai'i where he worked under local Italian restaurateur Chef Donato for a few years before starting Town with fellow chef and owner Ed Kenney, a man equally skilled behind a knife and range as he is he at running a successful business.
In the unlikeliest of events, the duo met playing ultimate Frisbee. Over time, the pair became friends and soon realized that they both held similar interests and approaches to what cuisine is, and how it should be presented. A few months later, a little salt, a little pepper, a lot of work and voilá, Town was born.
"When we first opened, we had really hoped that people would be receptive to the restaurant and the whole way we approach food and using local produce," says Caldiero, "but you just never know. But so far, we've been really lucky and have had a really steady flow of customers."
Caldiero understates the success of the restaurant. After keeping a steady base of well-fed and happy clientele, they expanded to open up a sister restaurant in the Hawai'i State Art Museum on South Hotel Street, aptly named Downtown. Utilizing the same methodology that has proven to be so successful, Downtown caters to the Honolulu 9-to-5ers looking to grab a quick, tasty bite to eat. Since opening, both Town and Downtown have been featured on Conde Naste's Restaurant "Hot List."
If you ask Caldiero about the positive press and media coverage the restaurants have received, he'll tell you that even though it's exciting, they're in the business because they love it. Additionally, you can't speak to Caldiero without the word "family" infiltrating the conversation. It's a dynamic that sits at the very base of the restaurant.
"For us, family is everything. From the people that work here to our own families, it's a very important part of working here. We're not open on Sundays, as an example, and that's so we can all have that time off to just hang out and relax away from work."
Caldiero speaks the truth. On any given day, it's not uncommon to see either his wife, or partner Ed Kenney's wife, seating people at the front of the restaurant. It's clear that for both families, running Town is a labor of love and is something that they hope to continue to do in the coming years.
When asked about where he sees the future of the restaurant moving forward, Caldiero and Kenney both remain optimistic that their unique take on cuisine and utilizing fresh, local produce will continue to support their growth. "You never know... maybe another restaurant?" says Caldiero with a laugh.
Let's hope he's not kidding.